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Mayonnaise: An Atrocity of War

[Note: I originally wrote this paper for a class in my culinary arts program, but had to use a way more boring title.  The rest of the paper is duplicated exactly, terrible final pun and all.]

As described by Labensky, Hause and Martel in “On Cooking”, Mayonnaise is a cold emulsion of egg yolk, an acid component such as vinegar or lemon juice, and oil. It is the foundation of a range of smaller sauces, including aiolis, remoulades, and a battery of salad dressings. However, its origins are apparently under hot dispute, with both France and Spain claiming rightful proprietorship.

The prevailing understanding has been that this controversial condiment was, in fact, a direct product of the struggle over turf. As described in David Merritt Johns’ article, “A Brief History of Mayonnaise”, “One origin story… holds that the condiment was born in 1756 after French forces under the command of Duke de Richelieu laid siege to Port Mahon, on the Mediterranean island of Minorca, now a part of Spain, in the first European battle of the Seven Years’ War. The Duke’s chef, upon finding the island lacked the cream he needed for a righteous victory sauce, invented an egg and oil dressing dubbed mahonnaise for its place of birth.”

Alternatively, Spanish chefs and historians argue that the sauce already existed in the Catalan country, and the French invaders were simply the first to name and claim it. Some of these explanations verge on conspiracy theory. In his essay “Salsa Mahonesa and the Seven Years War”, Tom Nealon writes, “It’s now apparent that France, seeing Britain’s fortunes turning… had taken the opportunity to make a run for what the Spanish/Catalan architects of the sauce called salsa mahonesa.  Allioli had been around at least since Pliny wrote about it in the first century C.E., but it had always been extremely problematic — coaxing an emulsion out of oil, garlic, and salt is, it is almost universally agreed, nearly impossible. This process had remained a Catalan secret for millennia for just this reason — it could hide in plain site [sic] because it was the culinary equivalent of black magic. What had apparently happened at some point (probably during the Renaissance) was that someone had added an egg and an acid to the recipe. This changed everything — anyone with the simple, if unlikely, instructions could now make this wonderful sauce. War was inevitable.”

However, allioli (the linguistic root of modern “aioli”) is itself tied to back into France, originating from the dialect of Provence. As Sam Dean wrote in “On the Etymology of the Word Mayonnaise” for Bon Appétit, “The name means, literally, “garlic” (alh in Provencal) and “oil” (oli in the same), and has been made in southwestern France and northeastern Spain dating back, at least, to the time of Roman occupation.”

Clearly, the roots of mayonnaise are deeply imbedded in this region, regardless of which flag flies over it, or where that imaginary (and therefore infinitely permeable) line called a “border” is drawn. Until the development of a time machine, true bragging rights shall remain shrouded in mayostery.

Works Cited

Dean, Sam. “On the Etymology of the Word Mayonnaise.” 4 April 2013. BonAppetit.com. 15 October 2014.

Johns, David Merritt. “A Brief History of Mayonnaise.” 27 December 2013. Slate.com. 18 October 2014.

Nealon, Tom. “Salsa Mahonesa and the Seven Years War.” 23 February 2010. HiLoBrow.com. 18 October 2014.

Sarah R. Labensky, Alan M. Hause, Priscilla A. Martel. On Cooking, 5th Ed. Upper Saddle River: Pearson, 2011.

There’s been some dangerous experimentation happening in our house.

For a week, all food prepared within the confines of our apartment has been… vegetarian.

I’ve been hoping to find a couple new, healthy recipes to incorporate into our regular repertoire, and figured a week of just veggie cuisine was a good way to push our borders. The experiment had mixed results, but one definite new favorite that came out of it is a chickpea and kale minestrone. Unfortunately, it’s also been a week of head-cold-and-umlaut-inducingly BRÜTAL winter weather. Seriously, a couple days ago I was digging out our cars from 14″ of snow, and at this moment there is thunder and lightning. But then, this weekend is supposed to be Ragnarök, so I guess that makes sense. Anyway, I’ve got a nasty sore throat and sinus situation emerging, and decided to make another batch! It’s fairly fast, easy, and mad packed with nutramites to fortify your X-zone!

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Ingredients:

1 onion, small diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 Tbsp olive oil
4 c. vegetable broth
14 oz can of red kidney beans, drained
14 oz can of chickpeas, drained
14 oz can diced tomatoes
1 c. sliced zucchini
1/2 c. carrot, shredded
4 c. kale, chopped and stemmed
1-1/2 tsp. oregano
1-1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1/2 tsp. basil
1/4 tsp. thyme
2-1/2 c. water
6 oz small shell pasta

  • In a large pot, sweat onions and garlic in oil until translucent.
  • Add in vegetable broth, beans, chickpeas, tomatoes, carrots, zucchini, kale, and seasonings. Bring to a boil, then drop heat to simmer for 20 minutes.
  • Add pasta, and cook 10 more minutes, or until shells are cooked through.

Stay warm and safe, folks!